What is it?

Akureyri is Iceland's second city — though with just under 20,000 residents, it feels more like a spirited town that happens to have a cathedral, a botanical garden and a surprisingly good coffee scene. It sits at the head of Eyjafjörður, the country's longest fjord, where flat-calm water mirrors mountains that stay snow-capped well into summer. Wander its compact centre and you'll find brightly painted timber houses, wool shops, craft breweries and the famous red heart-shaped traffic lights, installed after the 2008 financial crash as a reminder to keep spirits up. In summer the near-endless daylight fuels an infectious buzz of festivals and outdoor swimming; in winter, the town becomes a base for skiing at Hlíðarfjall and chasing the northern lights across dark fjord skies. What sets Akureyri apart from Reykjavík is its intimacy and its position — the north's wildest wonders, from Goðafoss to the whale grounds of Húsavík, all lie within easy reach.

Where is it?

Akureyri lies in northern Iceland, about 390 km (a five-hour drive) from Reykjavík along the Ring Road, or a 45-minute domestic flight; a few international routes also land at Akureyri Airport. It's the natural hub for the Diamond Circle — Goðafoss waterfall, Lake Mývatn, Dettifoss and the whale-watching harbour town of Húsavík. June to August brings the midnight sun, hiking and puffins, while late September to March offers northern lights, skiing and steamy soaks in the Forest Lagoon.

What makes it worth it?

Akureyri is where Iceland stops performing and starts simply being itself — travellers consistently describe it as the place they wish they'd given more days to. There's a particular kind of magic in floating in the Forest Lagoon's warm water at midnight, steam curling upward, the fjord glowing silver below and the aurora doing something impossible overhead. You'll remember the barrel-sized bowl of lamb soup after a windswept day at Goðafoss, the humpback that surfaced close enough for you to hear its breath, the botanical garden blooming absurdly well for a town this close to the Arctic Circle. Locals are warm and genuinely curious about visitors, and the pace invites conversation rather than checklists. "Reykjavík is the capital, but the north is the soul," is a sentiment you'll hear again and again — and after a few days here, you'll likely agree.

How accessible is it?

Very accessible: Akureyri is a modern, walkable town with hotels, guesthouses, hostels and restaurants, plus regular flights and buses from Reykjavík, so no fitness or special skills are required. Expect Icelandic prices — budget roughly €120–250 per night for accommodation, €25–45 for a main course, and around €40–60 for a rental car per day; a whale-watching tour runs €90–130 and the Forest Lagoon around €45. Nearly everyone speaks excellent English and cards are accepted everywhere, including buses and public toilets. The main planning consideration is winter driving: mountain passes and the Ring Road can close in storms, so check road.is daily and consider a 4x4 with studded tyres between November and April. Two to four days is ideal, and booking accommodation and popular tours ahead is wise in July and August, when Iceland's north sees its heaviest visitor traffic.