What is it?

La Fortuna is Costa Rica's adventure capital, a laid-back town of soda shops, sodas serving casado, and tour desks that sits at the foot of the near-perfect cone of Arenal Volcano. Until 2010, Arenal was one of the most active volcanoes on the planet, glowing orange at night and rumbling loud enough to rattle windows — locals still tell stories of the catastrophic 1968 eruption that reawakened the mountain and, ironically, made the town's fortune. Today the volcano rests, but its heat still feeds a landscape of steaming rivers and mineral springs where you can soak in 40°C water beneath rainforest canopy while toucans call overhead. Days here are spent chasing the 70-metre La Fortuna Waterfall down 500 steps into a jungle gorge, walking hanging bridges high in the cloud-brushed canopy, zip-lining above the treetops, or rafting the Balsa River. It's a place where the smell of wet earth and sulphur mingles with fresh coffee, and where every restaurant table seems to have a view of that impossibly symmetrical green pyramid.

Where is it?

La Fortuna sits in the San Carlos region of Alajuela Province in north-central Costa Rica, roughly three to four hours by road from San José and about the same from Liberia's international airport. The town is the gateway to Arenal Volcano National Park and Lake Arenal, and a popular jeep-boat-jeep transfer connects it to Monteverde in around three hours. The dry season from December to April offers the clearest volcano views and best trail conditions, while the green season (May to November) brings lush landscapes, fewer crowds and dramatic afternoon downpours — mornings are almost always the best time for a clear summit sighting.

What makes it worth it?

There's a particular kind of magic in soaking in a thermal river at dusk, cocktail in hand, as the clouds peel back to reveal Arenal's silhouette against a star-filled sky — travellers routinely describe it as the moment Costa Rica's pura vida philosophy finally clicked. La Fortuna packs an extraordinary density of experiences into a small radius: you can be swimming under a waterfall by 9am, gliding through the canopy by noon, and watching sloths in the rainforest by dusk. Families love it because there's something for every age and energy level; couples love it for the honeymoon-grade hot springs and volcano-view balconies. Many visitors arrive planning two nights and end up staying five, seduced by the rhythm of adventure by day and hot water by night. Years later, what people remember isn't just the adrenaline — it's the sound of rain on a rainforest roof, the taste of a cold Imperial after a hike, and that first jaw-dropping glimpse of the volcano emerging from cloud.

How accessible is it?

La Fortuna is one of the easiest adventure destinations in Central America to arrange, welcoming hundreds of thousands of visitors each year with excellent tourist infrastructure, English widely spoken, and tour desks on every corner. Getting there is straightforward: shared shuttles from San José cost around $55–65, public buses about $6, and private transfers $150–200; rental cars work well too, though a 4x4 is handy in the green season. Accommodation spans $15 hostel dorms to $500+ luxury hot-spring resorts, with excellent mid-range options at $60–120 a night. Activities are priced per tour: waterfall entry around $18, hanging bridges $30–40, zip-lining $60–90, hot springs $30–90 depending on the resort, and rafting $70–110. Most activities require only moderate fitness — the waterfall's 500 steps back up are the biggest physical test — and no special gear beyond rain jacket, quick-dry clothes, swimwear and sturdy shoes. Booking ahead is wise for December–April and Easter week, but outside peak periods you can often arrange tours the day before.