Saudi Arabia
Wander through rose-red Nabatean tombs at Hegra, camp beneath star-drenched desert skies, and dive the Red Sea's coral gardens in a kingdom only just opening its doors.
What is it?
Saudi Arabia is the Arabian Peninsula's vast, long-closed heartland — a country of red sand seas, black volcanic fields, palm-shaded oases and 2,000-year-old tombs carved into desert cliffs, now open to travellers for the first time in modern history. Here you can stand alone before the monumental Nabataean facades of Hegra (AlUla), sister city to Petra, where wind hums through sandstone canyons and the only sound at dawn is the crunch of your own footsteps. You can dive coral gardens in the Red Sea that see fewer divers in a year than Sharm el-Sheikh sees in a day, drink cardamom-scented qahwa poured from a brass dallah while dates are pressed into your hand, and wander the coral-stone lanes of Jeddah's Al-Balad as the call to prayer rolls across rooftops. The country holds Islam's two holiest cities, Mecca and Medina — accessible only to Muslims — alongside pre-Islamic rock art, mud-brick Diriyah, the mountain villages of Asir where houses are painted like folk art, and the Empty Quarter, the largest continuous sand desert on Earth. It's a place of striking contrasts: Riyadh's glass towers and neon-lit food scene one day, a Bedouin camp under a sky thick with stars the next. What makes it unique is the sensation of arriving early — of seeing a country reveal itself before the crowds, the guidebooks and the tour buses catch up.
Where is it?
Saudi Arabia occupies most of the Arabian Peninsula, bordered by the Red Sea to the west and the Arabian Gulf to the east, with Jordan, Iraq, Kuwait, the UAE, Qatar, Oman and Yemen as neighbours. The unmissable highlights are AlUla and Hegra in the northwest, historic Jeddah and the Red Sea coast, Riyadh and UNESCO-listed Diriyah in the centre, the cool green mountains of Asir and Abha in the southwest, and the Rub' al Khali (Empty Quarter) in the south. Visit between November and March, when daytime temperatures are pleasant and desert nights are crisp — summer inland can exceed 45°C, though the Asir highlands stay mild year-round and AlUla's winter festival season (Dec–Feb) brings concerts, art installations and hot-air balloons.
What makes it worth it?
Few destinations still deliver the genuine thrill of the unknown, and Saudi does — visitors consistently say the biggest surprise isn't the scenery but the hospitality, describing being waved over for coffee by strangers, refused payment, and invited to family meals within hours of arriving. Standing at Hegra with barely a dozen other people in sight, or watching the sun sink over the Edge of the World escarpment outside Riyadh with 300 metres of nothing beneath your feet, is the kind of silence that recalibrates you. "I came expecting somewhere difficult and left having been treated like family" is a sentiment repeated again and again by travellers, many of whom arrive with preconceptions and leave planning a return. You'll remember the taste of camel milk and fresh dates in a Bedouin tent, the ochre glow of sandstone at golden hour in Sharaan Nature Reserve, the smell of oud drifting through a Jeddah souq, and the slightly disorienting feeling of watching a nation reinvent itself in real time. Years later, the detail that lingers for most people is the stars over the Empty Quarter — a sky so dense and unpolluted it feels less like looking up than looking out.
How accessible is it?
It's far easier than most people assume: since 2019, citizens of some 60+ countries can get an eVisa online in minutes for around SAR 535 (roughly $140 USD including mandatory insurance), valid for a year of multiple entries, and Saudi welcomed over 27 million international visitors in 2023. Flights land at Riyadh, Jeddah, Dammam and AlUla, domestic flights are cheap and frequent, and hire cars plus ride-hailing apps (Uber, Careem) make getting around straightforward — women can drive and travel independently, and solo female travellers report feeling very safe, though modest dress covering shoulders and knees is expected for everyone. Budget roughly $100–180 per day for mid-range travel, or $400+ in AlUla and Red Sea resorts where accommodation is limited and premium; Hegra tours run about $25–60 and desert camps from $150 a night. Physically it's undemanding — most sites involve short walks — but heat management, sun protection and plenty of water are essential outside winter. Practical notes: alcohol is entirely prohibited, Mecca and Medina are closed to non-Muslims, Friday midday sees widespread closures, and booking AlUla accommodation and Hegra tickets weeks ahead in high season is strongly recommended.